giorno ultimo

Last Day in Rome:

We had no specific itinerary for our last day in Rome.  After our 3 euro bottomless cappuccino and mega croissant, we hit the pavement for the subway a few blocks from our hotel.  

Here are a few shots of Hotel Parioli:

After the fiasco yesterday we made sure we got our subway ticket validated. 

Our first destination was the Coliseum. 

This trip required two subway line changes and we got to see the local life up close and personal.  Once at the Coliseum we took a grand walk around it and into the Roman ruins as far as possible without waiting in line for a tour. 

 
The plan from here was to walk the via Corso, the main commercial road in Rome that would take us in the general direction of our residence.  On the way Ellen and Nace shopped and Joe and I took the preferred option of people watching; way more fun.  On the advice of the Swatch store sales clerk we enjoyed pranzo at Vitti, our last Italian all'aperto dining experience.  The food was not quite up to our expectations and we were surrounded by smokers.  Shopping continued for the ladies while Joe and I made a pilgrimage to Santa Lorenzo directly across from where we had lunch.  The church was hosting an exhibition of artifacts and history on Padre Pio.  Joe was familiar with this modern saint and I was especially glad that we had the “accident” of this side trip.  It was very interesting to learn about St. Pio and I look forward to shopping for some of his books via Amazon when we get home.

 We continued our walk up via Corso with the next deviation to Spagna-the Spanish Steps.  This is another tourist and local hangout and an opportunity to rest, people watch and enjoy another gelato.  Ellen continued shopping and Joe, Nace and I experienced the steps first hand, ascending to the church at the top.  Every church in Rome contains artwork from masters and students of the renaissance.  These guys were basically the “paperhangers” of their day, decorating the walls with all manner of paintings and frescoes.   There was also another incredible sculpture of the Pieta.  Back down the steps we rendezvoused with Ellen took the subway back to our hotel.

Spanish steps to Trinita de Monte ~1503 in the background.

Chestnuts roasting

We took a two hour intermezzo and then set out for a last walk- about the neighborhood of our hotel.  Since it was drizzly we decided to take our last nourishment in the room.  First we made a stop at the grocery.   I will forever regret forgetting my camera.  The store front was barely 15’ wide and what was seen from the street was not at all a reflection of what was inside.  Once through the narrow first passage it expanded into an amazing space, leaving no need unmet.  The fish market alone was a feast for my eyes.  We picked up some vino rosso, cheese and crackers for our appertivo.  I found a Chianti from the winery (Checci) where Dario Castangno worked before becoming a famous tour guide and author.  I could have spent the night in the store exploring all the amazing foods. 

We strolled back to the hotel, ordered our pizzas and started in on the vino and cheese.  The local pizza is NOT Papa John’s.  Very delicious crust, fresh pomodoro and Italian cheeses, not to mention a fried egg in the center. 

We had an early wake up call with taxi to the airport ordered for 7am. 

Buono notti!  zzzzzzzzzzzzZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

Buongiorno!

Monday September 30 Travel day

Awake and refreshed with a decent nights sleep I found a café bar next to our hotel and grabbed two quick cappuccinos to start the day.  The taxi was early and Ellen, Joe, Nace and I loaded up for the ride to Fiumicino.   Once at the airport we dealt with check in, then security, then passport scrutiny and a bus to the main terminal.  The terminal is like a small shopping mall.  More cappuccino, juice aranche and croissants topped off our tanks until we boarded the 10+ hour flight to Charlotte.  I am especially hoping that I do not end up like the two Jersey girls sitting next to me in the terminal coughing up their lungs with no attempt to retard the pulmonary excretions with a hand or elbow.  It will be a miracle if we do not come down with TB after this exposure!

Time for boarding, Buon viaggio! ..............................

Our flight to Charlotte was uneventful and Nace and I managed to stay awake watching movies.  We have probably not seen three movies in the last 6 months but managed to see five between the two of us on this flight.  Once we cleared passport and customs and turned our luggage back over to the airline, we said our sad goodbyes to Joe and Ellen.  

We were home, reunited with Jazz by 9 pm (20 hours since we woke up in Rome) and found all sorts of homemade goodies in the fridge and freezer thanks to Brad and Billy.  

Rita, our short term dog sitter, really dog whisperer, also left us a special treat to kick off our first morning back in Naples on a good note.

Thus our little ten day Italian adventure comes to a close.  It was a trip of a lifetime.  We were able to have a true immersion experience in Tuscany and met some wonderful people along the way.  

Aside from the Roman subway police scam incident and a nearly successful pickpocketing of Ellen's purse on the subway yesterday, every single person we interacted with in Italy was warm, considerate, kind, and patient.  I can only dream of how much better my daily commute to work would be if we could send Americans to Italian driving school.  They move fast and stay out of the way, I heard a horn used twice and witnessed only a single fender-bender in the entire 10 days there.   

Our Scannano family have left us with some special memories, albeit with somewhat expanded waistlines.  

 

Barbara, Marilena, Luciano, (Francesco-absent; hard at work at the hospital) and Antonio

We had the true pleasure of meeting and sharing our experiences with Fiona.  

Thanks to Brad and Billy we were able to leave our little bambina in good hands.

Most especially we are thankful to have been able to share all these experiences with four of the most special people we have had the honor to know over the years.  

No not these lovely Tuscan babes but.......

Glenda, Rod, Ellen and Joe

Arrivederci e Dio vi benedica !

Giorno Sette

I think I slept for a few hours last night.  The events of the previous day topped off with the rush hour drive through the insane traffic of Rome put my adrenals into overdrive.  

We sent Rod and Glenda off to the airport for a flight departing at 11 with a recommended 8am arrival at security.  Based on our last trip out of Rome I would say that is good advice.  Once there they can relax and have, what I recall, a pretty decent cappuccino in the terminal.  



I finally got to see our hotel for the first time this morning.  It is actually spectacular.  Parioli is a upper class residential district north west of the center of the city.  Our hotel is new within the past year.  In stark contrast to the rustic habitation of the last week, this is ultra modern and very comfortable.  The hotel staff are very friendly and best of all there is a bottomless cappuccino available for 3 euros in the morning.  

After sending the Rallo's on their way we walked to the nearest subway stop at Euclide-destination Vatican.  Subway's are pretty much the same in most cities so the basics were pretty familiar.  When we transferred from our first line, we apparently missed the ticket scanning and there was no attendant nearby to ask questions.  When we tried to exit to the street we were stopped by two attendants who tried to make this an international incident.  They took our passports and then proceeded to attempt to scam us out of 100 euros each.  We finally settled on 50 for all four of us and with my ears on fire, we set out for the Vatican.

Vatican city was a mass of humanity and the walk to the museum is a gauntlet of hucksters interspersed with some helpful people who directed us to the entrance for those holding reserved tour tickets.  Once inside, we waited for our tour and chatted with some other pilgrims.  Our tour started more or less promptly at 10:30 with an "English" speaking guide.  We suffered significant "post tour audiologic stress syndrome" after a few hours of explanations of the historic wonders we were observing.  Anything above eye level was beyond hope of seeing since we were in a dense school of fish all trying to swim in the same direction, keeping the guide in sight and squeezing a procession 30 people wide into a doorway wide enough for two.  We all agreed that it was a worthwhile tour but were glad it was over.  

Taking photos in the museum is fruitless unless you want to be trampled.  Photography inside the Sistine Chapel is prohibited-vietata!



 Now we are in the Basilica and photography is consentita.  No work of Michelangelo could be more stirring than the Pieta, below. 
 

 



 
We exited the museum and Sistine chapel into the Basilica of St. Peter, again wall to wall with tourists.  We did get to see the highlights inside and then walked into the square to see the Basilica from the best vantage point.  




 
 


As we were already on the "wrong" side of the river we headed to Trastevere, the town on the west bank of the river "beyond the Tiber".  It has great character with cobbled, narrow, serpentine streets lined by medieval homes converted to pubs and restaurante.  We found a place for pranzo and enjoyed a hearty lunch of bruschetti, salad, ravioli in a truffle sauce and eggplant parmigiano, accompanied by a bottle of "house wine" which was labeled with a picture of the front of the restaurante.  

 


We continued our walk about Trastevere until it was time for the vigil Mass at Santa Maria established in 337 AD.  Before Mass we sat on the steps of the fountain in the middle of the square and watched people.  

Santa Maria in Trastevere

By now we were all pretty beat from walking and decided to forgo the subway and take a cab back to Parioli.  That required a bit more walking but Nace and I were able to remember where we last caught a cab here in 2011.  

The cab ride home was fun as our driver spoke pretty decent English.  Thus we were able to pick up on some of his observations as we drove through the city.  

Back at the Hotel, we washed off the grime of Trastevere and walked about our neighborhood in search of a light evening meal.  Joe spotted an osteria with a smorgasbord selection of authentic Roman antipasti served with a glass of wine.  Nace and I had the calimari stuffed with cheese and capers, Ellen had an eggplant/pasta dish and Joe had a fruit and cheese plate which got lost in the intepretation.  The waiter brought him a selection of cheese wedges and a bowl of intact apples, pears, and oranges more appropriate for a still life than eating?   Nace and Ellen finished with a dolce of artistic pasteries and a blackberry granita.  Back to the hotel we were in bed for the first time before 11 since we started the trip.  



Tomorrow we will head to the Colosseum.  There may also be some shopping on the itinerary.

Buono notti